UV light can damage our skin, creating hyperpigmentation, wrinkling, abnormal cell development, and lead to skin cancer. Just about everyone has at some point been caught unprepared in the sun. Many of us don't begin to see the visible effects on our skin until one day we look in the mirror and suddenly see discoloration and a growing number of wrinkles. Excessive exposure to sun rays is the most common reason people age prematurely. Aging skin presents as: dehydration, fine lines, volume loss and the appearance of deep wrinkles, as well as skin discoloration. Age spots (solar lentigines) on the skin are directly caused by UV exposure.
Peels are one of the oldest modalities for rejuvenating the skin and they are still the go to solution today for improving the appearance of prematurely aging skin due to excessive sun exposure. Our skin has a natural built-in desquamation (shedding) process. Over a 24-hour period we naturally are going to lose over a million skin cells. One of the factors that disrupt this normal desquamation process is aging. As the tissue ages the desquamation process just slows down. As an individual ages, if they are not performing exfoliation procedures it can take anywhere from 45 to 60 days for that skin cell to fully renew itself.
Peels work with this already pre-programmed process that’s happening every day. New skin cells are given birth in what we call the stratum basale layer of the skin and then go through a process of differentiation, migrating through the dermis up to the epidermis and all the way from the basal layer of the epidermis to the granular layer. Through the peel process we can remove surface dead skin cells and send a signal that those cells need to be replaced. This process of continuous shedding and replacement actually helps to accelerate the rate of desquamation and prevents the metabolic rate of the skin from slowing down as we age. This is how we can have so much effect on undoing the effects of environmental stressors and delaying the signs of aging - just through exfoliation of the epidermis.
Best practice for exfoliation is to start with a superficial level of peel, such as the Institut' DERMed Fundamental Level 101 Brightening Peel, formulated with a combination of L-Lactic Acid and Pearl Powder to accelerate the exfoliation of dead skin cells. This 101 peel can be used in the treatment room and also at home to extend professional results between treatments. After this level of pre-conditioning you can gradually progress in follow up professional treatments to a Level 201 peel such as the Lactic+ Peel or the Glycolic+ Peel.
These peels are Alpha Hydroxy Acid peels that loosen and remove dead skin cell buildup and help to even out skin pigmentation as well as encourage collagen production. The benefit is a glowing firmness that lends a kind of ageless look to your skin.
To truly defend against the signs of too much sun exposure using the right topical ingredients daily to nourish and condition the skin in-between sessions is key. Apply a Vital C (L-Ascorbic Acid) Serum daily, the antioxidant and photo protective properties of ascorbic acid make vitamin C a vital component for skin health that helps to protect the skin while brightening uneven toned areas.
Beautiful skin is healthy skin, always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily, even when it is cloudy outside. Daily application of sunscreen is essential if you are trying to undo hyperpigmentation issues. All it takes is one sun exposure to re-pigment quickly.
"NanoFacial" is a term we have been hearing a lot recently, usually in reference to a treatment modality that utilizes a hand held wand (or pen) oscillating at a calibrated speed to act as an infusion catalyst for skincare ingredients. The purpose of the treatment is to increase efficacy of the products applied during treatment. In brief, the key to how it works is the premise that in breaking down "bulkier" ingredients to a more refined option that will allow for greater permeability. This process is of course not exactly new, iontophoresis, an electric-based delivery of nutrients, was first proposed in the mid 18th century as a method for more in-depth penetration to the skin. Due to the electrical charge, the skin can absorb the ingredients more effectively.
What is exciting today is that nanotechnology is advancing in the formulation of active ingredients themselves, meaning that this greater permeability can also be accomplished without the use of tools and is built in to the product itself. Nanotechnology has been around for some time – in fact the first patent holders in the U.S. date as far back as 1998! It is a very exciting field that is still developing.
Nanotechnology in topical skincare products is defined as a particle that acts as a vehicle to assist the ingredients in product formulations with increased penetration, hopefully leading to greater efficacy of the product. Cosmeceuticals have long been the fastest growing segment in skincare and nanotechnology is now an exciting delivery system for these active ingredients. These "nano-cosmeceuticals" have emerged as the defense frontier in skin rejuvenation with the encapsulation of ingredients that protect and enhance effectiveness.
Nanosomes are a major breakthrough in skincare applications. A Nanosome is tiny and can slip beyond the surface of the skin with minimal resistance. When nutrient rich ingredients are fully absorbed through the skin this nourishment produces more dramatic effects. Nanosomes are used to deliver protectants as well as nutrients such as antioxidants and proteins. Proteins derived from stem cells are one example of nano-cosmeceuticals in skincare. These proteins can now be encapsulated allowing for an uncompromised delivery. Other nanomaterials such as nano-capsules are also a very effective delivery system for ingredients such as retinol.
Liposomes are a transdermal delivery system whose previous success is well known for encapsulating active ingredients. This has led to a slew of other nanoparticles that help to increase the penetration of these products into the layers the skin. This is particularly helpful in product formulations for treating conditions such as cellulite, where the best success rate occurs when active ingredients can be delivered to where cellulite forms. Nanoparticles are also being used to protect encapsulated ingredients such as vitamin C, helping to prevent oxidization and the effects of exposure to UVA and UVB light while nourishing the skin at the same time.
The rewards of incorporating nanotechnology into cosmetics are many, in particular helping to safely reinforce those structures between the epidermis and the dermis, improve skin cell respiration, and promote stronger fibroblasts and collagen production. The benefit is restoring a tight, firmness to the skin, providing an ageless look, an improved texture and a more even skin tone as we get older. Now who doesn’t applaud that?
Current examples of nanotechnology applications in Institut' DERMed clinical skin care include:
- Micro encapsulated Retinol - Vital A Serum
- L-Acorbic Acid - Vital C Serum
- Lipsomes - Cellulite Rx
- Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, utilize nanoparticles to block ultraviolet rays. - Brightening Moisturizer
- Apple Stem Cells – Anti-Oxidant Peptide Lifting Serum to help deliver ingredients where they are needed to prevent the appearance of aging of the skin. These proteins are encapsulated in liposome nanoparticles.
Photo-aging is often the first sign that your skin has been damaged from sun exposure. Brown spots, known as hyper-pigmentation can be caused by UVA & UVB light. After years of sun exposure these dark spots begin to rear their ugly heads on our faces, hands and body.
Reducing these signs of sun damage can also reduce your risk of developing skin cancer. Many of the treatments for photoaging not only restore a more youthful appearance, but also reduce the risk for developing precancers.
Targeting dark spots that often result from over exposure to sunlight is best achieved with regular treatments containing active ingredients such as those contained in the Institut’ DERMed Brightening Product category.
Regular facial treatments can be a tool in the fight against skin cancer. Research has shown that peels, along with other facial-resurfacing techniques, may help reduce the presence of skin lesions and precancerous conditions that can develop into skin cancers..
Treatment Spotlight - Fundamental Level 101 Brightening Facial
After a superficial cleanse to remove make up the Brightening treatment begins with a corrective cleanse using the Institut' DERMed Brightening Skin Cleanser – An aromatic foaming gel treatment cleanser formulated with Kojic acid designed to initiate the brightening process. This deep cleanse of the skin helps to prepare for the application of the corrective products that will exfoliate and even the skin tone.
After the cleanse we apply the Institut' DERMed Brightening Skin Toner – A potent anti-oxidant treatment toner formulated with L-ascorbic acid, L-glutathione enzyme and Spin Trap molecules to help protect the skin against environmental stressors and free radical reactions by rapidly releasing skin cells as well as dissolving oil.
We then apply the Institut’ DERMed Enhancing Micro Crystal Polish, a highly effective exfoliater formulated with Diamond Corundum Crystals and Jojoba Beads to polish away dead skin cells, improve overall texture and refine pores in preparation for the Brightening Peel.
The Institut' DERMed Brightening Peel is formulated with 10% -Lactic Acid to increase cellular exfoliation, brighten and re-texturize the skin. The Pearl Powder in this formula is rich in micro-nutrient anti-oxidants helping to protect against environmental damage and improve the rate of cell renewal.
Our prize winning (Dermascope Aestheticians choice award) Institut' DERMed Brightening Mask is an excellent post peel treatment as it is very hydrating as well as brightening and helps to fade stubborn uneven skin tone. Formulated with Licorice Root Extract and SymWhite®77 to rapidly improve the appearance of dark spots and uneven, patchy skin.
An application of Institut' DERMed Vital C Serum – formulated with L-ascorbic acid, DHEA-ascorbic and calcium ascorbic then helps to increase skin firmness and create a more youthful appearance.
Always complete this and any other facial treatment with an application of Brightening Moisturizer, a light weight SPF15 - all in one Micronized Titanium Dioxide, Oxybenzone and Sodium PCA moisturizer for daily use to hydrate and protect.
When we are dealing with skin that has been over exposed to the sun very often we are dealing with more than one issue, and this regimen is ideal for promoting overall healthy skin.
SKIN COLOR AND THE ROLE OF MELANIN
Human skin has red, yellow, brown and blue tones. What we actually perceive in skin color is the reflected light off the skin. The best way to see true skin color is in natural light.
Melanin is also known as pigment. Melanin production is essentially a protective mechanism to prevent ultra violet damage to the cell nucleus.The basic unit of melanin is tyrosine, an amino acid which goes through a variety of conversions before melanin starts to form. Melanin is then transferred to the keratin cells by melanosomes. These cells rise to the stratum corneum, and eventually are sloughed from the skin.
The Summer Season has arrived.
"The wild-rose briar is sweet in the spring, Its summer blossoms scent the air;
Yet wait till winter comes again, And who will call the wild-briar fair?" Emily Bronte
Institut’ DERMed welcomes the Summer with our Summer Essentials to help guide you through summer fun without the sun damage. None of us want to end up like a "wild-briar" come September and so we've come up with a few recommends designed with just that goal in mind.