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Displaying items by tag: serum
Friday, 03 May 2019 15:19

The Therapeutic Potential of Peptides

institut dermed peptides blog

Peptides are at the heart of efficient age targeting cosmetic products. Peptides have a direct effect on influencing collagen production which correlates to a healthy and youthful appearance with smoother skin and reduced wrinkles.

What is a Peptide?

In simple terms peptides are constructed from various combination chains of amino acids. These amino acid chains occur naturally in the body and serve as the building blocks for protein. One important protein in our skin is collagen. Peptides play a key role in skin health, everything from wound healing to skin regeneration and maintenance.


Peptide cosmeceutical preparations fall into three major categories: carrier peptides, signal peptides, and neurotransmitter peptides. The first peptides in this arena were labeled carrier peptides as they were introduced into the pharmaceutical world to assist in enhancing wound healing. The first commercialized carrier peptide delivered copper, necessary for wound healing, into the wounded tissue. Later this peptide was adapted and commercialized in facial cosmeceuticals to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Signal peptides are designed to create a biologic response. The first commercialized signal peptide was palmitoyl pentapeptide known commercially as Matrixyl. This is still one of the most widely used peptides in facial cosmeceuticals. Matrixyl appears to down-regulate the production of collagenase thereby increasing dermal collagen.

Neurotransmitter peptides were developed to attempt to act in a way that is similar to botulinum toxin. Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is the most widely commercialized neurotransmitter peptide of this type and is thought to help induce muscle relaxation thereby softening the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

There are many types of peptides but for skin care the most exciting are collagen stimulating peptides. Matrixyl (palmitoyl-pentapeptide 3) found in the Institut' DERMed Enhancing Eye Cream Complex, is a peptide known to have a specific effect on collagen synthesis and skin repair. Because of this it qualifies for use as a long-term age targeting ingredient. Also incorporated into the formula is Eyeliss™ a patented peptide, that helps to reduce puffiness and bags under the eyes, and Haloxyl™ matrix-derived peptides often used in cosmetic fillers like Restylane to smooth out wrinkles. These powerhouse peptides reinforce firmness, tone the eye area and lessen the appearance of under eye dark circles.

Almost as popular as Matrixyl are the copper peptides. Copper peptides are shown to help reduce redness and irritation. The Institut' DERMed Bio Derm Nutri Gel (professional use only) is formulated with copper peptides; it is the most researched peptide in the market today for improving the skin's capacity to heal.

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide –{ a string of up to 20 amino acids} is a relatively new addition to the list of peptides currently in use in skin care. Some experts believe that the chains of amino acids communicate with the skin's collagen and boost its production, which is a major factor in achieving smooth, wrinkle-free skin. Institut' DERMed Enhancing Hydra Lip Serum is formulated with Palmitoyl Oligopeptide which helps to make it a lip line enhancing powerhouse.

Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate found in the Institut' DERMed Lactic+ Peel is an encapsulated peptide that helps to break the bonds between dead cells at the surface of the skin, so it speeds up the rate of skin cell renewal.

One of the newest collagen stimulating Peptides is called Pro-Coll One. The Institut' DERMed Anti-Oxidant Lifting Peptide Serum is formulated with this powerful peptide that appears to have a targeted efficacy on collagen synthesis.

Neutrazen™ (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8) is a multifunctional active that calms and soothes the skin. The Institut' DERMed Soothing Mask is formulated with this Tripeptide to soothe the skin. Perhaps one of the most incredible benefits of this ingredient is its ability to return the complexion to a more resilient state which helps to build a higher sensitivity threshold in sensitive skin.

All peptides exist in limited amounts in nature so research and lab re-production is an on-going exciting field as the market for peptides continues to grow steadily. The development of specific and targeted uses of these potent ingredients to guard against disease and illness is also projected to increase. In the lab new peptides are being discovered all the time along with more enhanced delivery systems.

 

Published in Featured
Friday, 02 November 2018 15:45

Moisturizing Strategies for Fall and Winter

idermed moisturizing strategiesMoisturizing Strategies for Fall and Winter

As we transition from Fall into Winter our skin can be difficult to deal with. Products that just yesterday were working great for your complexion just don't seem as effective today. Anyone with sensitive skin prone to irritation can find that their skin can erupt overnight. This is also true for oily/acne prone skin types. For some, the colder months can be helpful in that your skin will be less oily, but on the other hand a buildup of dead skin cells can create congestion leading to breakouts and a very dull complexion.

Exfoliation is necessary for both oily and dry skin types in winter. It removes the dead skin and allows serums and hydration to penetrate. Conditioning your skin once a month with a professional facial treatment using cosmeceutical organic acids such as glycolic, lactic and salicylic will work to break down oils (lipids) in the skin allowing for accelerated cell shedding. Adding a topically applied skin exfoliator to your home care regimen, such as the Institut' DERMed Enhancing Micro Crystal Polish that contains corundum crystals and jojoba beads will polish away dead skin cells and when used once a week will provide a mild exfoliation without risk of over exfoliating. After any exfoliation follow with a serum and moisturizer recommended for your skin type to restore the epidermal barrier for maximum hydration and protection.

Tips for avoiding dry and dull Winter skin

1. Wash with a creamy cleanser like the Institut’ DERMed Enhancing Creamy Cleanser with Milk Proteins to remove makeup, dirt and oil without stripping skin of precious oils that bond water to the cells. Always use tepid water and a soft wash cloth to remove cleansers.

2. Balance your skin’s pH after cleansing with a corrective toner to hydrate and prepare your skin for better penetration of your serum and moisturizer.

3. Cosmeceutical ingredients treat and hydrate skin. The Institut’ DERMed Anti-Oxidant Peptide Serum with Spin Trap Proteins bond nutrient rich water to the skin and provide the first layer of hydration and protection for dry skin types. For oily skin types the Institut' DERMed Totarol Serum formulated with Totarol Extract and Tea Tree Oil is a much gentler alternative to benzoyl peroxide in the winter months and will help you to maintain a clear, clean complexion.

4. The Institut’ DERMed Renewing Moisturizer will provide maximum skin protection for those with dry skin, protecting against environmental aggressions and softening the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. For excessively oily skin types the Clarifying Moisturizer with plant derived Squalene Oil and Tea Tree Oil will restore the skin's ideal moisture balance while maintaining a clear complexion.

5. Keep some intensive moisturizing cream on hand such as the Enhancing Protective Cream for the face, and the Enhanching Lactic Hand and Body Lotion for the body to handle those problematic areas whenever necessary, especially if you live in a very harsh winter climate.

Published in Featured
Monday, 13 March 2017 18:48

Skin Hydration

Strengthening your skin’s ability to retain moisture is the key to youthful looking skin.  Understanding your skin's natural moisture level is understanding that it can fluctuate depending on your skin type and the kind of environmental exposures your skin is exposed to. The lipid layer of your skin is designed to keep moisture in and keep irritants out so when it comes to your skin how hydrated or dehydrated your skin is and looks, depends on holding on to that moisture as much as possible.

There's no doubt that the more hydrated your skin is, the more youthful it will look and the better it will feel. Certain ingredients in your skin care products are powerhouse moisture retention aids. If skin dehydration is an issue for you (or you want to help prevent the dehydration that can come with aging skin) look for these ingredients in your product choices:

Hyaluronic Acid and Green Tea Extracts in your cleanser will help to prevent dehydration.

PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum (comfrey stem cells) and Phytic Acid add deep cell hydration that plumps the cells helping to make them look and act lifted and younger.
Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) and Spin Trap proteins help to prevent the water loss that is a side effect of natural aging.

For  oily skin Sodium Hyaluronate helps to bind water to the skin’s cells. This ingredient in a moisturizing formulation is like giving oily skin a big drink of water, not oil.

For people with excessively oily skin conditions that need the benefits of acne fighting ingredients as well as hydration a combination of Pythic Acid, grapefruit  peel oil and Ascorbic Acid combined in a serum will hydrate without feeling like you're adding oil on oil.

Rose hip seed oil is a powerful anti-aging tool. It quickly absorbs into the skin replenishing moisture and creates a protective barrier on the skin to help prevent dehydration.

Lactic acid is a naturally occurring humectant for the skin helping to keep skin hydrated. As you can imagine body lotion containing this ingredient create a soft, smooth texture you'll love.

Shea butter increases cellular hydration & moisture retention.

A skin care regimen containing these key ingredients will very effectively boost the moisture levels in your skin.

For a simple and quick fix focus on layering a serum with a moisturizer to create beautifully nourished skin.
Published in Featured