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Displaying items by tag: peel

Institut dermed blog premature agingUV light can damage our skin, creating hyperpigmentation, wrinkling, abnormal cell development, and lead to skin cancer. Just about everyone has at some point been caught unprepared in the sun. Many of us don't begin to see the visible effects on our skin until one day we look in the mirror and suddenly see discoloration and a growing number of wrinkles. Excessive exposure to sun rays is the most common reason people age prematurely. Aging skin presents as: dehydration, fine lines, volume loss and the appearance of deep wrinkles, as well as skin discoloration. Age spots (solar lentigines) on the skin are directly caused by UV exposure.

Peels are one of the oldest modalities for rejuvenating the skin and they are still the go to solution today for improving the appearance of prematurely aging skin due to excessive sun exposure. Our skin has a natural built-in desquamation (shedding) process. Over a 24-hour period we naturally are going to lose over a million skin cells. One of the factors that disrupt this normal desquamation process is aging. As the tissue ages the desquamation process just slows down. As an individual ages, if they are not performing exfoliation procedures it can take anywhere from 45 to 60 days for that skin cell to fully renew itself.

Peels work with this already pre-programmed process that’s happening every day. New skin cells are given birth in what we call the stratum basale layer of the skin and then go through a process of differentiation, migrating through the dermis up to the epidermis and all the way from the basal layer of the epidermis to the granular layer. Through the peel process we can remove surface dead skin cells and send a signal that those cells need to be replaced. This process of continuous shedding and replacement actually helps to accelerate the rate of desquamation and prevents the metabolic rate of the skin from slowing down as we age. This is how we can have so much effect on undoing the effects of environmental stressors and delaying the signs of aging - just through exfoliation of the epidermis.

Best practice for exfoliation is to start with a superficial level of peel, such as the Institut' DERMed Fundamental Level 101 Brightening Peel, formulated with a combination of L-Lactic Acid and Pearl Powder to accelerate the exfoliation of dead skin cells. This 101 peel can be used in the treatment room and also at home to extend professional results between treatments. After this level of pre-conditioning you can gradually progress in follow up professional treatments to a Level 201 peel such as the Lactic+ Peel or the Glycolic+ Peel.

These peels are Alpha Hydroxy Acid peels that loosen and remove dead skin cell buildup and help to even out skin pigmentation as well as encourage collagen production. The benefit is a glowing firmness that lends a kind of ageless look to your skin.

To truly defend against the signs of too much sun exposure using the right topical ingredients daily to nourish and condition the skin in-between sessions is key. Apply a Vital C (L-Ascorbic Acid) Serum daily, the antioxidant and photo protective properties of ascorbic acid make vitamin C a vital component for skin health that helps to protect the skin while brightening uneven toned areas.

 

Beautiful skin is healthy skin, always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily, even when it is cloudy outside. Daily application of sunscreen is essential if you are trying to undo hyperpigmentation issues. All it takes is one sun exposure to re-pigment quickly.

 

Published in Featured
Friday, 03 May 2019 15:19

The Therapeutic Potential of Peptides

institut dermed peptides blog

Peptides are at the heart of efficient age targeting cosmetic products. Peptides have a direct effect on influencing collagen production which correlates to a healthy and youthful appearance with smoother skin and reduced wrinkles.

What is a Peptide?

In simple terms peptides are constructed from various combination chains of amino acids. These amino acid chains occur naturally in the body and serve as the building blocks for protein. One important protein in our skin is collagen. Peptides play a key role in skin health, everything from wound healing to skin regeneration and maintenance.


Peptide cosmeceutical preparations fall into three major categories: carrier peptides, signal peptides, and neurotransmitter peptides. The first peptides in this arena were labeled carrier peptides as they were introduced into the pharmaceutical world to assist in enhancing wound healing. The first commercialized carrier peptide delivered copper, necessary for wound healing, into the wounded tissue. Later this peptide was adapted and commercialized in facial cosmeceuticals to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Signal peptides are designed to create a biologic response. The first commercialized signal peptide was palmitoyl pentapeptide known commercially as Matrixyl. This is still one of the most widely used peptides in facial cosmeceuticals. Matrixyl appears to down-regulate the production of collagenase thereby increasing dermal collagen.

Neurotransmitter peptides were developed to attempt to act in a way that is similar to botulinum toxin. Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is the most widely commercialized neurotransmitter peptide of this type and is thought to help induce muscle relaxation thereby softening the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

There are many types of peptides but for skin care the most exciting are collagen stimulating peptides. Matrixyl (palmitoyl-pentapeptide 3) found in the Institut' DERMed Enhancing Eye Cream Complex, is a peptide known to have a specific effect on collagen synthesis and skin repair. Because of this it qualifies for use as a long-term age targeting ingredient. Also incorporated into the formula is Eyeliss™ a patented peptide, that helps to reduce puffiness and bags under the eyes, and Haloxyl™ matrix-derived peptides often used in cosmetic fillers like Restylane to smooth out wrinkles. These powerhouse peptides reinforce firmness, tone the eye area and lessen the appearance of under eye dark circles.

Almost as popular as Matrixyl are the copper peptides. Copper peptides are shown to help reduce redness and irritation. The Institut' DERMed Bio Derm Nutri Gel (professional use only) is formulated with copper peptides; it is the most researched peptide in the market today for improving the skin's capacity to heal.

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide –{ a string of up to 20 amino acids} is a relatively new addition to the list of peptides currently in use in skin care. Some experts believe that the chains of amino acids communicate with the skin's collagen and boost its production, which is a major factor in achieving smooth, wrinkle-free skin. Institut' DERMed Enhancing Hydra Lip Serum is formulated with Palmitoyl Oligopeptide which helps to make it a lip line enhancing powerhouse.

Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate found in the Institut' DERMed Lactic+ Peel is an encapsulated peptide that helps to break the bonds between dead cells at the surface of the skin, so it speeds up the rate of skin cell renewal.

One of the newest collagen stimulating Peptides is called Pro-Coll One. The Institut' DERMed Anti-Oxidant Lifting Peptide Serum is formulated with this powerful peptide that appears to have a targeted efficacy on collagen synthesis.

Neutrazen™ (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8) is a multifunctional active that calms and soothes the skin. The Institut' DERMed Soothing Mask is formulated with this Tripeptide to soothe the skin. Perhaps one of the most incredible benefits of this ingredient is its ability to return the complexion to a more resilient state which helps to build a higher sensitivity threshold in sensitive skin.

All peptides exist in limited amounts in nature so research and lab re-production is an on-going exciting field as the market for peptides continues to grow steadily. The development of specific and targeted uses of these potent ingredients to guard against disease and illness is also projected to increase. In the lab new peptides are being discovered all the time along with more enhanced delivery systems.

 

Published in Featured
Tuesday, 09 October 2018 17:58

What Pumpkin Enzymes Can Do For You

idermed pumpkinFruit and vegetable enzymes are proteins with the ability to target and break down dead skin cells. When used in skin care products, the enzymes speed up chemical reactions on the skin's surface, increasing skin cell turnover to reveal healthy, glowing skin. The enzymes take the place of manual exfoliation with an added bonus: they're also full of antioxidants! Pumpkin enzymes naturally contain vitamin A, making them the most effective enzyme for refining the skin's surface. This miracle enzyme helps to treat fine lines and wrinkles as well as to combat oily acne breakouts.

Skin care products that achieve this "healthy glow" without the downtime are available for home-care as well as professional use. Five minutes at home is all you need to transform your skin with the Institut Dermed Clarifying Peel. Formulated with oil controlling Pumpkin Enzymes and L-Lactic Acid this weekly treatment accelerates the release of dead cell build-up, fades the appearance of skin discoloration, decongests clogged pores and helps to prevent the appearance of blemishes for a clear, clean complexion. Contains 5% Pumpkin Enzymes.

For professional use, the Institut Dermed Pumpkin Peel facial treatment combines enzymes and fruit acids to accelerate exfoliation without the oxidative and free radical stress associated with most peels. The mild retinoic acid benefit helps the exfoliation process and this peel is also packed with Vitamin C, an antioxidant to strengthen your skin’s defenses and prevent the signs of aging. The Pumpkin Peel treatment takes approximately 30 minutes. There's no downtime with this peel which makes it an excellent lunchtime treatment.Contains 15% Pumpkin Enzymes. For Professional Use Only.

Published in Featured
Friday, 02 March 2018 20:23

Say Goodbye to Winter Skin

InstitutDermed blog ExfoliationHeading into Spring there may still be some unexpectedly cooler temperatures here and there, but the evenings are starting to stay brighter longer and the days noticeably more sunny. Early Spring is the perfect time to say goodbye to dry, winter skin and prepare your face and body for spending more time outdoors.

Exfoliation is the process of removing dry, damaged skin cells from the surface of the skin; Exfoliation helps to increase skin regeneration, boost elasticity and create a smoothness (minimizing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles). Natural aging may be unavoidable but exfoliation contributes to “healthy skin aging” by delaying or preventing the visible appearance of skin aging. Strengthening your skin’s ability to retain moisture is the key to youthful looking skin.

The more hydrated your skin is, the more youthful it will look and moisturizing on top of a layer of dead dry skin buildup won't accomplish much. Dry winter skin can also just feel itchy and uncomfortable and clog pores leading to more breakouts if you are acne prone.

Using both a topical and a physical exfoliant in a skin care regime will keep those dead, dry skin cells at bay. An exfoliating scrub such as the Enhancing Micro Crystal Polish with corundum crystals and jojoba beads and an exfoliating peel such as the Brightening peel with Lactic Acid will also break up pigmented areas, sloughing off those damaged skin cells to help even the skin tone and brighten for a gorgeous healthy glow.

In clinic this is a great time of the year to add on a professional peel, a microdermabrasion or a dermaplaning to your regular facial treatment. Spring is here - get your Dermed glow on!

Published in Featured
Friday, 01 December 2017 22:20

How Collagen Rejuvenation Treatments Work

Collagen rejuvenating treatments are based on the principle that the skin has a natural abilitiy to repair itself whenever it is subjected to any kind of physical damage.  Immediately after an injury such as a cut, burn or an abrasion our body goes into a healing response and part of that response mechanism is to produce new collagen and elastin fibers.

Collagen is the main protein found in our bones, muscles and tendons.  It makes up 75 percent of our skin forming the scaffold that strenthens our connective tissue. There are several different types of collagen but two types in particular, Type I and Type III Collagen, are responsible for the majority of our skin’s regeneration.  When the skin is injured Type III Collagen begins the healing process and is followed in the later stages of wound repair by Type I Collagen, which is stronger and more resilient.

As children, our skin is rich with Type III Collagen. This is why a child's skin is soft and supple, enabling it to repair very quickly when injured. As we enter adulthood production of Type III Collagen slows and the production of Type I Collagen begins to increase. Type I Collagen continues to build until we reach the age of around thirty-five and then starts to decrease.

This is when true aging begins. Existing collagen degrades and the formation of new collagen decreases.  Due to this reduction in collagen our skin becomes thinner and less elastic, pore size increases, facial spider veins and sun damage become more apparent, fine lines begin to appear, wrinkles become deeper and our skin loses its natural youthful radiance. These issues then become steadily worse as time progresses.

Collagen production can, however, be stimulated with what we call a controlled injury.  When the face is cut, for example, Type I and Type III Collagen are released to repair the wound. This is the body’s normal wound-healing response.  It is this normal wound-healing response that treatments such as Micro-Needling, RadioFrequency, IPL and Clinical Peels are based on to naturally increase the production of collagen in the skin.

With the presence of new collagen the skin’s condition begins to improve.  It becomes plumper and suppler, wrinkles and scars diminish,  skin tightens,  uneven skin texture is smoothed, pore size appears smaller, and blemishes fade. With each treatment more new collagen is produced and the overall quality of the skin continues to improve.  

What are the after effects?

Topicals for home skin care maintenance are recommended to extend results and of course to continue to protect the collagen you have.

Vital A Serum contains L-Retinol that helps to promote collagen production and slow down the loss of elastin in skin tissue. The exfoliation effect of Vital A Serum also removes the dead skin cell layers and improves acne as well.

Vital C Serum (ascorbic acid) is essential for the synthesis of collagen.  In fact collagen cannot be built without vitamin C and its antioxidant properties make it a vital ingredient for skin health.  Studies have shown that maximal absorption in the skin is achieved with a 20% vitamin C solution. Although not a suncscreen Vitamin C is also recommended for it's antioxidant activity that limits the damage caused by UV exposure.

Sunscreen.
Published in Featured

Remember that dewy skin of your youth? Childhood skin looks tight and toned because of active collagen production in the dermis of the skin. This slows steadily as we get older, eventually causing the skin to grow slack and fine lines and wrinkles to appear. Choosing the most effective treatment plan from all the current available options can be confusing. But if a more youthful appearance is your goal then it's worth knowing that true anti-aging treatments must stimulate collagen production in order to be effective. Facial skin resurfacing is the quickest way to achieve a collagen boost.

Published in Featured