Collagen rejuvenating treatments are based on the principle that the skin has a natural abilitiy to repair itself whenever it is subjected to any kind of physical damage. Immediately after an injury, such as an abrasion or a burn, our body goes into a healing response; part of that response mechanism is to produce new collagen and elastin fibers.
Collagen is the main protein found in our bones, muscles and tendons. It makes up 75 percent of our skin, forming the scaffold that strenthens our connective tissue. There are several different types of collagen but it is Type I and Type III Collagen in particular that are responsible for the majority of our skin’s regeneration. When the skin is injured Type III Collagen begins the healing process and is followed in the later stages of repair by Type I Collagen, which is stronger and more resilient.
As children, our skin is rich with Type III Collagen. This is why a child's skin is so capable of repairing itself very quickly after any kind of abrasion due to a fall. But as we enter adulthood the production of this Type III Collagen naturally slows down. Instead our Type I Collagen begins to increase. Type I Collagen continues to build until we reach the age of around thirty-five and then it too starts to decrease. This is when true aging begins. Due to this reduction in collagen our skin becomes thinner and less elastic, pore size increases, facial spider veins and sun damage become more apparent, fine lines begin to appear, wrinkles become deeper and our skin loses its natural youthful radiance. These issues then become steadily worse as time progresses.
Collagen production can, however, be encouraged with what we call a controlled injury. When the face is abraded such as with Microdermabrasion or an exfoliating Acid Peel or treated with Micro-needling, or heated through Radio Frequency, it triggers the body’s normal wound-healing response. It is this normal wound-healing response that the science of these treatments are based on to naturally increase the production of collagen in the skin.
With the presence of new collagen the skin’s condition begins to improve. Over time it will appear plumper and suppler, skin tightens, fine lines and wrinkles appear softer, uneven skin texture is smoothed, and dark spots appear to fade. With each treatment more new collagen is produced and the overall quality of the skin continues to improve.
Although aging is a biological inevitable process it is possible to focus on ‘successful aging’. Maintaining professional results at home will also greatly help to minimize the signs of aging on the skin. Topicals for home skin care maintenance are particularly recommended to not only encourage collagen production but to continue to protect the collagen you still have from degrading further.
Professional treatments with a Facial peel such as the Institut' DERMed Level 201 Retinol+ Peel containing L-Retinol, works to exfoliate the surface of the skin and promote collagen production. The exfoliation effect of this peel not only removes the dead skin cell layers but will improve the appearance of acneic skin as well.
The next level up, the Institut' DERMed Micro Lifting Peel contains L-Ascorbic Acid which is essential to collagen production. Collagen cannot be built without vitamin C and its antioxidant properties which make it a vital ingredient for skin health. Studies have shown this to be one of the strongest antioxidants proven to encourage collagen and protect the skin from oxidative stressors. Although not a suncscreen Vitamin C is also recommended for it's antioxidant activity that helps to protect the skin from UV stressors that contribute to the signs of premature aging.
Homecare recommendations to continue maintaining professional treatment results are the Institut' DERMed Vital C Serum formulated with L-Ascorbic Acid and Resveratrol and the Institut' DERMed Vital A Serum formulated with Micro-encapsulated L-Retinol and Glycolic Acid.
Aging may be mathematically inevitable but it is possible to delay the appearance of aging on your skin. Read more about collagen rejuvenation in this months Institut' DERMed Healthy Skin Lifestyle Magazine Issuu:
UV light can damage our skin, creating hyperpigmentation, wrinkling, abnormal cell development, and lead to skin cancer. Just about everyone has at some point been caught unprepared in the sun. Many of us don't begin to see the visible effects on our skin until one day we look in the mirror and suddenly see discoloration and a growing number of wrinkles. Excessive exposure to sun rays is the most common reason people age prematurely. Aging skin presents as: dehydration, fine lines, volume loss and the appearance of deep wrinkles, as well as skin discoloration. Age spots (solar lentigines) on the skin are directly caused by UV exposure.
Peels are one of the oldest modalities for rejuvenating the skin and they are still the go to solution today for improving the appearance of prematurely aging skin due to excessive sun exposure. Our skin has a natural built-in desquamation (shedding) process. Over a 24-hour period we naturally are going to lose over a million skin cells. One of the factors that disrupt this normal desquamation process is aging. As the tissue ages the desquamation process just slows down. As an individual ages, if they are not performing exfoliation procedures it can take anywhere from 45 to 60 days for that skin cell to fully renew itself.
Peels work with this already pre-programmed process that’s happening every day. New skin cells are given birth in what we call the stratum basale layer of the skin and then go through a process of differentiation, migrating through the dermis up to the epidermis and all the way from the basal layer of the epidermis to the granular layer. Through the peel process we can remove surface dead skin cells and send a signal that those cells need to be replaced. This process of continuous shedding and replacement actually helps to accelerate the rate of desquamation and prevents the metabolic rate of the skin from slowing down as we age. This is how we can have so much effect on undoing the effects of environmental stressors and delaying the signs of aging - just through exfoliation of the epidermis.
Best practice for exfoliation is to start with a superficial level of peel, such as the Institut' DERMed Fundamental Level 101 Brightening Peel, formulated with a combination of L-Lactic Acid and Pearl Powder to accelerate the exfoliation of dead skin cells. This 101 peel can be used in the treatment room and also at home to extend professional results between treatments. After this level of pre-conditioning you can gradually progress in follow up professional treatments to a Level 201 peel such as the Lactic+ Peel or the Glycolic+ Peel.
These peels are Alpha Hydroxy Acid peels that loosen and remove dead skin cell buildup and help to even out skin pigmentation as well as encourage collagen production. The benefit is a glowing firmness that lends a kind of ageless look to your skin.
To truly defend against the signs of too much sun exposure using the right topical ingredients daily to nourish and condition the skin in-between sessions is key. Apply a Vital C (L-Ascorbic Acid) Serum daily, the antioxidant and photo protective properties of ascorbic acid make vitamin C a vital component for skin health that helps to protect the skin while brightening uneven toned areas.
Beautiful skin is healthy skin, always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily, even when it is cloudy outside. Daily application of sunscreen is essential if you are trying to undo hyperpigmentation issues. All it takes is one sun exposure to re-pigment quickly.
Read more about sun exposure and premature aging in our Institut' DERMed Healthy Skin Lifestyle Magazine August Issuu
More and more we are becoming aware of the impact of environmental pollutants and the affect they can have on the vital functions of the skin. This can lead to many issues, the most noticeable being wrinkles, dehydration and hyperpigmentation that create the dark spots typically associated with advancing age, and dehydration that can set the stage for acne and other skin breakouts.
It is often assumed that skin pollutants are only a problem in large cities with high smog levels, but all of us are exposed to pollutants that are damaging to the skin on a regular basis. Perhaps the most common environmental stressor on the skin is the sun. UV, UVA and IR rays can all damage skin cells. Even when the sun is not shining you can be surrounded by invisible rays. Invisible atomspheric pollutants are present at all hours of the day. Because you can't see them you don't even know when you are being exposed to them. Exhaust fumes are a good example of this type of pollutant. Then there's dust, smoke, debris, pollen and other microscopic material that all travel through the air around us. Even at home you might be exposed to pollutants. Spray pesticides linger in the air for a long time as do most household cleaning sprays.
As we get older our skin cell turnover starts to slow dramatically and our collagen and elastin naturally starts to break down, add some skin stress and our complexion very quickly takes on a dull and tired look. These conditions also give way, seemingly out of nowhere, to skin irratations and other sensitive reactions.
So how do we stop the damage from happening and start to reverse what's already been done to our skin?
A protective barrier for your skin helps to tackle domestic, atmospheric and UV source stressors and helps to prevent them from wreaking too much havoc on your skin. The lipid layer of your skin is designed to keep moisture in and keep irritants out so when it comes to your skin, how hydrated or dehydrated your skin is and looks depends on holding on to that moisture as much as possible.
Strengthening your skin’s ability to retain moisture is key. Certain ingredients in your skin care products are powerhouse moisture retention aids.
Look for these ingredients in your product choices:
Hyaluronic Acid and Green Tea Extracts in your cleanser will help to prevent dehydration (Renewing Cleanser).
PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum (comfrey stem cells) and Phytic Acid add deep cell hydration that plumps the cells helping to make them look and act lifted and younger. (Instant Radiance Serum)
Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) and Spin Trap proteins help to prevent the water loss that is a side effect of natural aging. (Renewing Moisturizer)
For oily skin Sodium Hyaluronate helps to bind water to the skin’s cells. This ingredient in a moisturizing formulation is like giving oily skin a big drink of water, not oil. (Clarifying Moisturizer)
For people with excessively oily skin conditions that need the benefits of acne fighting ingredients as well as hydration a combination of Pythic Acid, grapefruit peel oil and Ascorbic Acid combined in a serum will hydrate without feeling like you're adding oil on oil. (Clarifying Matte Fluid)
Rose hip seed oil is a powerful anti-aging tool. It quickly absorbs into the skin replenishing moisture and creates a protective barrier on the skin to help prevent dehydration. (The Enhancing Neck & Décolleté Cream)
Lactic acid is a naturally occurring humectant for the skin helping to keep skin hydrated. As you can imagine body lotion containing this ingredient create a soft, smooth texture you'll love. (The Enhancing Lactic Hand and Body Lotion)
Shea butter increases cellular hydration & moisture retention. (The Enhancing Protective Cream)
A skin care regimen containing these key ingredients will very effectively boost the moisture levels in your skin. For days when a simple and quick fix is needed try layering on a serum under a moisturizer for double the protection to create beautifully nourished skin.
As the anti-aging market continues to flourish staying knowledgeable about active ingredients is more important than ever. But despite all the newest discoveries in topical skincare one of the main power players in clinical studies remains Vitamin A derivatives Retinoids and Retinols).
First studied in 1943 as a treatment for acne, Retinoic Acid suddenly found itself in the spotlight for other benefits - namely its effectiveness in diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Topical Vitamin A has also been shown to help build collagen fibers within the skin in addition to a superficial exfoliation, which is why it is such a groundbreaking anti-aging ingredient in skin care.
A Retinoid varies in its chemical structure from a retinol. Retinoids can only be prescribed by a doctor and can be very tough on your skin. Retinol however, can be included in over-the-counter fromulations and is mainly found in serums and moisturizers. Anyone prone to dryness or sensitivity may not tolerate a retinoid very well but achieve great results in a much more gentle way with a retinol.There are many benefits of retinol and anyone who is serious about anti-aging, whether it be preventative or restorative, should have retinol in their anti-aging routine. Working together with an esthetician to achieve your skin goals with a professional grade Retinol peel treatment as well as maintaining your results at home with a nightly topical application of retinol will bring you the best results.
Although this ingredient has long been known for its benefits what continues to improve in cosmetic formulations are the delivery systems used to transport the active cosmeceutical in the skin to where you need it to be. The Institut' Dermed Vital A serum is formuated with micro encapsulated retinol- this micro-encapsulation is a nano-delivery system shell capsule that stabilizes the retinol and makes it more absorbable into the skin. Diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and promoting collagen production is not all this all star ingredient does either: additional benefits include lifting dark spots and softening rough patches of skin. We recommend using the Vital A serum every other day at first and then gradually working up to nightly applications. Over time, you will see some great results not only for diiminshing the signs of aging but also for discoloration and uneven skin tone, leaving your skin looking brighter, younger, and more alive.
Keep in mind that retinols will increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight so always wear a sunscreen daily.
Interested in a Retinol Peel and take home Vital A Serum? Check out this Spa Deal available during the month of March.