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Friday, 26 July 2019 18:58

Nanotechnology in Skincare

nanotechnology iDermed blog "NanoFacial" is a term we have been hearing a lot recently, usually in reference to a treatment modality that utilizes a hand held wand (or pen) oscillating at a calibrated speed to act as an infusion catalyst for skincare ingredients. The purpose of the treatment is to increase efficacy of the products applied during treatment. In brief, the key to how it works is the premise that in breaking down "bulkier" ingredients to a more refined option that will allow for greater permeability. This process is of course not exactly new, iontophoresis, an electric-based delivery of nutrients, was first proposed in the mid 18th century as a method for more in-depth penetration to the skin. Due to the electrical charge, the skin can absorb the ingredients more effectively.

What is exciting today is that nanotechnology is advancing in the formulation of active ingredients themselves, meaning that this greater permeability can also be accomplished without the use of tools and is built in to the product itself. Nanotechnology has been around for some time – in fact the first patent holders in the U.S. date as far back as 1998! It is a very exciting field that is still developing.

Nanotechnology in topical skincare products is defined as a particle that acts as a vehicle to assist the ingredients in product formulations with increased penetration, hopefully leading to greater efficacy of the product. Cosmeceuticals have long been the fastest growing segment in skincare and nanotechnology is now an exciting delivery system for these active ingredients. These "nano-cosmeceuticals" have emerged as the defense frontier in skin rejuvenation with the encapsulation of ingredients that protect and enhance effectiveness.

Nanosomes are a major breakthrough in skincare applications. A Nanosome is tiny and can slip beyond the surface of the skin with minimal resistance. When nutrient rich ingredients are fully absorbed through the skin this nourishment produces more dramatic effects. Nanosomes are used to deliver protectants as well as nutrients such as antioxidants and proteins. Proteins derived from stem cells are one example of nano-cosmeceuticals in skincare. These proteins can now be encapsulated allowing for an uncompromised delivery. Other nanomaterials such as nano-capsules are also a very effective delivery system for ingredients such as retinol.

Liposomes are a transdermal delivery system whose previous success is well known for encapsulating active ingredients. This has led to a slew of other nanoparticles that help to increase the penetration of these products into the layers the skin. This is particularly helpful in product formulations for treating conditions such as cellulite, where the best success rate occurs when active ingredients can be delivered to where cellulite forms. Nanoparticles are also being used to protect encapsulated ingredients such as vitamin C, helping to prevent oxidization and the effects of exposure to UVA and UVB light while nourishing the skin at the same time.

The rewards of incorporating nanotechnology into cosmetics are many, in particular helping to safely reinforce those structures between the epidermis and the dermis, improve skin cell respiration, and promote stronger fibroblasts and collagen production. The benefit is restoring a tight, firmness to the skin, providing an ageless look, an improved texture and a more even skin tone as we get older. Now who doesn’t applaud that?

Current examples of nanotechnology applications in Institut' DERMed clinical skin care include:

- Micro encapsulated Retinol - Vital A Serum
- L-Acorbic Acid - Vital C Serum
- Lipsomes - Cellulite Rx
- Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, utilize nanoparticles to block ultraviolet rays. - Brightening Moisturizer
- Apple Stem Cells – Anti-Oxidant Peptide Lifting Serum to help deliver ingredients where they are needed to prevent the appearance of aging of the skin. These proteins are encapsulated in liposome nanoparticles.

Read more about nano technology in skincare in our Institut' DERMed Healthy Skin Lifestyle Magazine July Issuu:

Published in Featured
Friday, 03 May 2019 15:19

The Therapeutic Potential of Peptides

institut dermed peptides blog

Peptides are at the heart of efficient age targeting cosmetic products. Peptides have a direct effect on influencing collagen production which correlates to a healthy and youthful appearance with smoother skin and reduced wrinkles.

What is a Peptide?

In simple terms peptides are constructed from various combination chains of amino acids. These amino acid chains occur naturally in the body and serve as the building blocks for protein. One important protein in our skin is collagen. Peptides play a key role in skin health, everything from wound healing to skin regeneration and maintenance.


Peptide cosmeceutical preparations fall into three major categories: carrier peptides, signal peptides, and neurotransmitter peptides. The first peptides in this arena were labeled carrier peptides as they were introduced into the pharmaceutical world to assist in enhancing wound healing. The first commercialized carrier peptide delivered copper, necessary for wound healing, into the wounded tissue. Later this peptide was adapted and commercialized in facial cosmeceuticals to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Signal peptides are designed to create a biologic response. The first commercialized signal peptide was palmitoyl pentapeptide known commercially as Matrixyl. This is still one of the most widely used peptides in facial cosmeceuticals. Matrixyl appears to down-regulate the production of collagenase thereby increasing dermal collagen.

Neurotransmitter peptides were developed to attempt to act in a way that is similar to botulinum toxin. Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is the most widely commercialized neurotransmitter peptide of this type and is thought to help induce muscle relaxation thereby softening the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

There are many types of peptides but for skin care the most exciting are collagen stimulating peptides. Matrixyl (palmitoyl-pentapeptide 3) found in the Institut' DERMed Enhancing Eye Cream Complex, is a peptide known to have a specific effect on collagen synthesis and skin repair. Because of this it qualifies for use as a long-term age targeting ingredient. Also incorporated into the formula is Eyeliss™ a patented peptide, that helps to reduce puffiness and bags under the eyes, and Haloxyl™ matrix-derived peptides often used in cosmetic fillers like Restylane to smooth out wrinkles. These powerhouse peptides reinforce firmness, tone the eye area and lessen the appearance of under eye dark circles.

Almost as popular as Matrixyl are the copper peptides. Copper peptides are shown to help reduce redness and irritation. The Institut' DERMed Bio Derm Nutri Gel (professional use only) is formulated with copper peptides; it is the most researched peptide in the market today for improving the skin's capacity to heal.

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide –{ a string of up to 20 amino acids} is a relatively new addition to the list of peptides currently in use in skin care. Some experts believe that the chains of amino acids communicate with the skin's collagen and boost its production, which is a major factor in achieving smooth, wrinkle-free skin. Institut' DERMed Enhancing Hydra Lip Serum is formulated with Palmitoyl Oligopeptide which helps to make it a lip line enhancing powerhouse.

Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate found in the Institut' DERMed Lactic+ Peel is an encapsulated peptide that helps to break the bonds between dead cells at the surface of the skin, so it speeds up the rate of skin cell renewal.

One of the newest collagen stimulating Peptides is called Pro-Coll One. The Institut' DERMed Anti-Oxidant Lifting Peptide Serum is formulated with this powerful peptide that appears to have a targeted efficacy on collagen synthesis.

Neutrazen™ (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8) is a multifunctional active that calms and soothes the skin. The Institut' DERMed Soothing Mask is formulated with this Tripeptide to soothe the skin. Perhaps one of the most incredible benefits of this ingredient is its ability to return the complexion to a more resilient state which helps to build a higher sensitivity threshold in sensitive skin.

All peptides exist in limited amounts in nature so research and lab re-production is an on-going exciting field as the market for peptides continues to grow steadily. The development of specific and targeted uses of these potent ingredients to guard against disease and illness is also projected to increase. In the lab new peptides are being discovered all the time along with more enhanced delivery systems.

 

Published in Featured