"NanoFacial" is a term we have been hearing a lot recently, usually in reference to a treatment modality that utilizes a hand held wand (or pen) oscillating at a calibrated speed to act as an infusion catalyst for skincare ingredients. The purpose of the treatment is to increase efficacy of the products applied during treatment. In brief, the key to how it works is the premise that in breaking down "bulkier" ingredients to a more refined option that will allow for greater permeability. This process is of course not exactly new, iontophoresis, an electric-based delivery of nutrients, was first proposed in the mid 18th century as a method for more in-depth penetration to the skin. Due to the electrical charge, the skin can absorb the ingredients more effectively.
What is exciting today is that nanotechnology is advancing in the formulation of active ingredients themselves, meaning that this greater permeability can also be accomplished without the use of tools and is built in to the product itself. Nanotechnology has been around for some time – in fact the first patent holders in the U.S. date as far back as 1998! It is a very exciting field that is still developing.
Nanotechnology in topical skincare products is defined as a particle that acts as a vehicle to assist the ingredients in product formulations with increased penetration, hopefully leading to greater efficacy of the product. Cosmeceuticals have long been the fastest growing segment in skincare and nanotechnology is now an exciting delivery system for these active ingredients. These "nano-cosmeceuticals" have emerged as the defense frontier in skin rejuvenation with the encapsulation of ingredients that protect and enhance effectiveness.
Nanosomes are a major breakthrough in skincare applications. A Nanosome is tiny and can slip beyond the surface of the skin with minimal resistance. When nutrient rich ingredients are fully absorbed through the skin this nourishment produces more dramatic effects. Nanosomes are used to deliver protectants as well as nutrients such as antioxidants and proteins. Proteins derived from stem cells are one example of nano-cosmeceuticals in skincare. These proteins can now be encapsulated allowing for an uncompromised delivery. Other nanomaterials such as nano-capsules are also a very effective delivery system for ingredients such as retinol.
Liposomes are a transdermal delivery system whose previous success is well known for encapsulating active ingredients. This has led to a slew of other nanoparticles that help to increase the penetration of these products into the layers the skin. This is particularly helpful in product formulations for treating conditions such as cellulite, where the best success rate occurs when active ingredients can be delivered to where cellulite forms. Nanoparticles are also being used to protect encapsulated ingredients such as vitamin C, helping to prevent oxidization and the effects of exposure to UVA and UVB light while nourishing the skin at the same time.
The rewards of incorporating nanotechnology into cosmetics are many, in particular helping to safely reinforce those structures between the epidermis and the dermis, improve skin cell respiration, and promote stronger fibroblasts and collagen production. The benefit is restoring a tight, firmness to the skin, providing an ageless look, an improved texture and a more even skin tone as we get older. Now who doesn’t applaud that?
Current examples of nanotechnology applications in Institut' DERMed clinical skin care include:
- Micro encapsulated Retinol - Vital A Serum
- L-Acorbic Acid - Vital C Serum
- Lipsomes - Cellulite Rx
- Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, utilize nanoparticles to block ultraviolet rays. - Brightening Moisturizer
- Apple Stem Cells – Anti-Oxidant Peptide Lifting Serum to help deliver ingredients where they are needed to prevent the appearance of aging of the skin. These proteins are encapsulated in liposome nanoparticles.
Read more about nano technology in skincare in our Institut' DERMed Healthy Skin Lifestyle Magazine July Issuu:
As the anti-aging market continues to flourish staying knowledgeable about active ingredients is more important than ever. But despite all the newest discoveries in topical skincare one of the main power players in clinical studies remains Vitamin A derivatives Retinoids and Retinols).
First studied in 1943 as a treatment for acne, Retinoic Acid suddenly found itself in the spotlight for other benefits - namely its effectiveness in diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Topical Vitamin A has also been shown to help build collagen fibers within the skin in addition to a superficial exfoliation, which is why it is such a groundbreaking anti-aging ingredient in skin care.
A Retinoid varies in its chemical structure from a retinol. Retinoids can only be prescribed by a doctor and can be very tough on your skin. Retinol however, can be included in over-the-counter fromulations and is mainly found in serums and moisturizers. Anyone prone to dryness or sensitivity may not tolerate a retinoid very well but achieve great results in a much more gentle way with a retinol.There are many benefits of retinol and anyone who is serious about anti-aging, whether it be preventative or restorative, should have retinol in their anti-aging routine. Working together with an esthetician to achieve your skin goals with a professional grade Retinol peel treatment as well as maintaining your results at home with a nightly topical application of retinol will bring you the best results.
Although this ingredient has long been known for its benefits what continues to improve in cosmetic formulations are the delivery systems used to transport the active cosmeceutical in the skin to where you need it to be. The Institut' Dermed Vital A serum is formuated with micro encapsulated retinol- this micro-encapsulation is a nano-delivery system shell capsule that stabilizes the retinol and makes it more absorbable into the skin. Diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and promoting collagen production is not all this all star ingredient does either: additional benefits include lifting dark spots and softening rough patches of skin. We recommend using the Vital A serum every other day at first and then gradually working up to nightly applications. Over time, you will see some great results not only for diiminshing the signs of aging but also for discoloration and uneven skin tone, leaving your skin looking brighter, younger, and more alive.
Keep in mind that retinols will increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight so always wear a sunscreen daily.
Interested in a Retinol Peel and take home Vital A Serum? Check out this Spa Deal available during the month of March.
The aging process begins when we enter the world and the effects of aging are evident in our bodies throughout our lives. Aging of the skin is mainly due to solar exposure and loss of hormones. Depending on your age, skin type, genetic makeup, and sun exposure you may have begun to see the effects of skin damage including lines, wrinkles, and age spots. While we are aging daily it is typically individuals over 35 years of age that begin to see these effects of aging reflected in the mirror.
The sun is also a major culprit in the skin-aging process. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation accounts for 90 percent of the symptoms of premature skin aging, resulting in lines and wrinkles, lentigos (brown freckles), telangiectases (dilated capillaries), acne and dry complexion.
After many years of research, scientists, dermatologists and plastic surgeons have discovered that a variety of natural ingredients and vitamin extracts significantly help slow down and even reverse the signs of aging skin. Many topical products are now formulated to moisturize and hydrate the skin, lessen fine lines, reduce roughness and pigmentation, and protect the skin from sun damage.
If visibly reducing the signs of aging is your main skin concern look for Ingredients in your skin care products such as:
Vitamin A (Retinol) - Topical Vitamin A has been suggested to help build collagen fibers within the skin in addition to its more superficial exfoliating property. This is the basis for its use in minimizing the appearance of fine wrinkle lines. Retin-A was the first popular agent intended for acne treatment, but widely sought as a cosmetic agent to reduce wrinkles.
Vitamin C - Vitamin C or ascorbic acid acts as an antioxidant and is considered vital in wound healing because it aids in stabilizing collagen. When applied topically, vitamin C can reduce fine lines and wrinkles and may lessen the severity of sunburns.
Vitamin E is another antioxidant that has been shown to have anti-inflammatory effects on the skin. When applied topically, vitamin E can improve moisturization, softness and smoothness and also provide modest photo protection.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) - AHAs are designed to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles, to improve skin texture and tone, unblock and cleanse pores, improve oily skin or acne, and to improve the skin’s condition in general.
Glycolic Acid - Glycolic acid is the most active and beneficial of the Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids (AHAs) in skin care, plumping cells and reducing the appearance of wrinkles on the skin’s surface. Glycolic acid is also very effective in the treatment of acne.
Peptides - Peptides are the latest scientific breakthrough in skin rejuvenation. Copper has been found to naturally firm the skin, enhance elasticity, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
Hydroquinone - Repeated exposure to UV radiation from the sun causes premature skin aging. This photo-aging is characterized by wrinkles, mottled pigmentation, dry and rough skin and loss of skin tone. Treatment with topical Hydroquinone, a potent tyrosinase inhibitor, helps to “turn off” melanocyte cell activity.
Chromabright – Is a relatively new patented active molecule for skin brightening without the cytotoxicity of hydroquinone. Photo protective Chromabright is proven to have higher melanogenesis inhibition than Arbutin, MAP, and Kojic Acid and the same depigmenting effect as hydroquinone.
PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum - (Comfrey Stem Cells) commonly known as Gotu Kola, is derived from the roots and leaves of the plant scientifically known as Hydrocotyle Centella asiatica provides for recharging the youthfulness of the skin.
It may be impossible to stop the aging process, but with the knowledge of effective ingredients and products, it is now possible to look as young on the outside as you feel on the inside.