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institut dermed peptides blog

Peptides are at the heart of efficient age targeting cosmetic products. Peptides have a direct effect on influencing collagen production which correlates to a healthy and youthful appearance with smoother skin and reduced wrinkles.

What is a Peptide?

In simple terms peptides are constructed from various combination chains of amino acids. These amino acid chains occur naturally in the body and serve as the building blocks for protein. One important protein in our skin is collagen. Peptides play a key role in skin health, everything from wound healing to skin regeneration and maintenance.


Peptide cosmeceutical preparations fall into three major categories: carrier peptides, signal peptides, and neurotransmitter peptides. The first peptides in this arena were labeled carrier peptides as they were introduced into the pharmaceutical world to assist in enhancing wound healing. The first commercialized carrier peptide delivered copper, necessary for wound healing, into the wounded tissue. Later this peptide was adapted and commercialized in facial cosmeceuticals to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Signal peptides are designed to create a biologic response. The first commercialized signal peptide was palmitoyl pentapeptide known commercially as Matrixyl. This is still one of the most widely used peptides in facial cosmeceuticals. Matrixyl appears to down-regulate the production of collagenase thereby increasing dermal collagen.

Neurotransmitter peptides were developed to attempt to act in a way that is similar to botulinum toxin. Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is the most widely commercialized neurotransmitter peptide of this type and is thought to help induce muscle relaxation thereby softening the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

There are many types of peptides but for skin care the most exciting are collagen stimulating peptides. Matrixyl (palmitoyl-pentapeptide 3) found in the Institut' DERMed Enhancing Eye Cream Complex, is a peptide known to have a specific effect on collagen synthesis and skin repair. Because of this it qualifies for use as a long-term age targeting ingredient. Also incorporated into the formula is Eyeliss™ a patented peptide, that helps to reduce puffiness and bags under the eyes, and Haloxyl™ matrix-derived peptides often used in cosmetic fillers like Restylane to smooth out wrinkles. These powerhouse peptides reinforce firmness, tone the eye area and lessen the appearance of under eye dark circles.

Almost as popular as Matrixyl are the copper peptides. Copper peptides are shown to help reduce redness and irritation. The Institut' DERMed Bio Derm Nutri Gel (professional use only) is formulated with copper peptides; it is the most researched peptide in the market today for improving the skin's capacity to heal.

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide –{ a string of up to 20 amino acids} is a relatively new addition to the list of peptides currently in use in skin care. Some experts believe that the chains of amino acids communicate with the skin's collagen and boost its production, which is a major factor in achieving smooth, wrinkle-free skin. Institut' DERMed Enhancing Hydra Lip Serum is formulated with Palmitoyl Oligopeptide which helps to make it a lip line enhancing powerhouse.

Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate found in the Institut' DERMed Lactic+ Peel is an encapsulated peptide that helps to break the bonds between dead cells at the surface of the skin, so it speeds up the rate of skin cell renewal.

One of the newest collagen stimulating Peptides is called Pro-Coll One. The Institut' DERMed Anti-Oxidant Lifting Peptide Serum is formulated with this powerful peptide that appears to have a targeted efficacy on collagen synthesis.

Neutrazen™ (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8) is a multifunctional active that calms and soothes the skin. The Institut' DERMed Soothing Mask is formulated with this Tripeptide to soothe the skin. Perhaps one of the most incredible benefits of this ingredient is its ability to return the complexion to a more resilient state which helps to build a higher sensitivity threshold in sensitive skin.

All peptides exist in limited amounts in nature so research and lab re-production is an on-going exciting field as the market for peptides continues to grow steadily. The development of specific and targeted uses of these potent ingredients to guard against disease and illness is also projected to increase. In the lab new peptides are being discovered all the time along with more enhanced delivery systems.

idermed pollutants april

More and more we are becoming aware of the impact of environmental pollutants and the affect they can have on the vital functions of the skin. This can lead to many issues, the most noticeable being wrinkles, dehydration and hyperpigmentation that create the dark spots typically associated with advancing age, and dehydration that can set the stage for acne and other skin breakouts.

It is often assumed that skin pollutants are only a problem in large cities with high smog levels, but all of us are exposed to pollutants that are damaging to the skin on a regular basis. Perhaps the most common environmental stressor on the skin is the sun. UV, UVA and IR rays can all damage skin cells. Even when the sun is not shining you can be surrounded by invisible rays. Invisible atomspheric pollutants are present at all hours of the day. Because you can't see them you don't even know when you are being exposed to them. Exhaust fumes are a good example of this type of pollutant. Then there's dust, smoke, debris, pollen and other microscopic material that all travel through the air around us. Even at home you might be exposed to pollutants. Spray pesticides linger in the air for a long time as do most household cleaning sprays.

As we get older our skin cell turnover starts to slow dramatically and our collagen and elastin naturally starts to break down, add some skin stress and our complexion very quickly takes on a dull and tired look. These conditions also give way, seemingly out of nowhere, to skin irratations and other sensitive reactions.

So how do we stop the damage from happening and start to reverse what's already been done to our skin?

A protective barrier for your skin helps to tackle domestic, atmospheric and UV source stressors and helps to prevent them from wreaking too much havoc on your skin. The lipid layer of your skin is designed to keep moisture in and keep irritants out so when it comes to your skin, how hydrated or dehydrated your skin is and looks depends on holding on to that moisture as much as possible.

Strengthening your skin’s ability to retain moisture is key. Certain ingredients in your skin care products are powerhouse moisture retention aids.

Look for these ingredients in your product choices:

Hyaluronic Acid and Green Tea Extracts in your cleanser will help to prevent dehydration (Renewing Cleanser).

PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum (comfrey stem cells) and Phytic Acid add deep cell hydration that plumps the cells helping to make them look and act lifted and younger. (Instant Radiance Serum)

Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) and Spin Trap proteins help to prevent the water loss that is a side effect of natural aging. (Renewing Moisturizer)

For oily skin Sodium Hyaluronate helps to bind water to the skin’s cells. This ingredient in a moisturizing formulation is like giving oily skin a big drink of water, not oil. (Clarifying Moisturizer)

For people with excessively oily skin conditions that need the benefits of acne fighting ingredients as well as hydration a combination of Pythic Acid, grapefruit peel oil and Ascorbic Acid combined in a serum will hydrate without feeling like you're adding oil on oil. (Clarifying Matte Fluid)

Rose hip seed oil is a powerful anti-aging tool. It quickly absorbs into the skin replenishing moisture and creates a protective barrier on the skin to help prevent dehydration. (The Enhancing Neck & Décolleté Cream)

Lactic acid is a naturally occurring humectant for the skin helping to keep skin hydrated. As you can imagine body lotion containing this ingredient create a soft, smooth texture you'll love. (The Enhancing Lactic Hand and Body Lotion)

Shea butter increases cellular hydration & moisture retention. (The Enhancing Protective Cream)

A skin care regimen containing these key ingredients will very effectively boost the moisture levels in your skin. For days when a simple and quick fix is needed try layering on a serum under a moisturizer for double the protection to create beautifully nourished skin.

institut dermed retinol peel and serum

As the anti-aging market continues to flourish staying knowledgeable about active ingredients is more important than ever. But despite all the newest discoveries in topical skincare one of the main power players in clinical studies remains Vitamin A derivatives Retinoids and Retinols). 

First studied in 1943 as a treatment for acne, Retinoic Acid suddenly found itself in the spotlight for other benefits - namely its effectiveness in diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Topical Vitamin A has also been shown to help build collagen fibers within the skin in addition to a superficial exfoliation, which is why it is such a groundbreaking anti-aging ingredient in skin care.

A Retinoid varies in its chemical structure from a retinol. Retinoids can only be prescribed by a doctor and can be very tough on your skin. Retinol however, can be included in over-the-counter fromulations and is mainly found in serums and moisturizers. Anyone prone to dryness or sensitivity may not tolerate a retinoid very well but achieve great results in a much more gentle way with a retinol.There are many benefits of retinol and anyone who is serious about anti-aging, whether it be preventative or restorative, should have retinol in their anti-aging routine. Working together with an esthetician to achieve your skin goals with a professional grade Retinol peel treatment as well as maintaining your results at home with a nightly topical application of retinol will bring you the best results.

Although this ingredient has long been known for its benefits what continues to improve in cosmetic formulations are the delivery systems used to transport the active cosmeceutical in the skin to where you need it to be. The Institut' Dermed Vital A serum is formuated with micro encapsulated retinol- this micro-encapsulation is a nano-delivery system shell capsule that stabilizes the retinol and makes it more absorbable into the skin.  Diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and promoting collagen production is not all this all star ingredient does either: additional benefits include lifting dark spots and softening rough patches of skin. We recommend using the Vital A serum every other day at first and then gradually working up to nightly applications. Over time, you will see some great results not only for diiminshing the signs of aging but also for discoloration and uneven skin tone, leaving your skin looking brighter, younger, and more alive.

Keep in mind that retinols will increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight so always wear a sunscreen daily.

Interested in a Retinol Peel and take home Vital A Serum? Check out this Spa Deal available during the month of March.

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